Start with the symptom
Every symptom we are called out for, traced to the causes that actually explain it — cheapest first. Start from what you are seeing rather than from what you think is broken.
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A dryer that smells of burning, runs too hot, trips the breaker or smells of gas can start a fire or leak gas indoors, so these come first — each with its usual causes, cheapest first. Stop the cycle and cut the power; for gas, leave the house and call the gas utility from outside.
A hot, scorched or electrical smell from the drum, the cabinet or the vent outside while the dryer runs.
Causes, cheapest first
The dryer smells like gas: a rotten-egg odor near a gas dryer at startup, during a cycle, or all the time.
Causes, cheapest first
The cabinet, the door or the clothes come out far hotter than normal, sometimes before the dryer shuts itself off.
Causes, cheapest first
The breaker for the dryer trips at startup, when the heat comes on, or at random during a cycle.
Causes, cheapest first
Nothing is scorching and no gas is involved with these, so a booked window is normally fine. Each page lists what an owner can safely look at before the visit.
A gas dryer has a burner and a flame sensor, a stacked pair shares a frame with its washer, and a ventless one condenses its moisture instead of blowing it outdoors. Find the one you own.
All dryer types
The most common dryer in US homes: a 240-volt heating coil, a belt-driven drum and a vent to the outside.
Heat from a burner on natural gas or propane, lit by an igniter and watched over by a flame sensor, with the motor on 120 volts.
The dryer half of a stacked pair or a single-frame laundry center, where the height and the closet decide how the repair is done.
Heat-pump and condenser dryers, including 24-inch compacts, that take the water out of the air instead of blowing it outside.
Every kind we serviceThe archive puts the 4 types against each other: how to tell which you own, what fails on each, and which manufacturers build them.
How to tell yoursWhat fails on eachWho makes them Open the type archiveFamiliar brands. Expert care.
Independent repair service. Not affiliated with, authorized or endorsed by any manufacturer. Brand names and model numbers are the property of their respective owners and are used here for identification only, to describe the appliances we service.
Most people arrive knowing what they are seeing, not what is wrong. These are the jobs a visit usually turns out to be.
One visit that turns damp clothes, a silent drum or a hot smell into a named part and a price.
No heat or weak heat on an electric dryer, traced to the coil, its terminals or the safety parts on its housing.
A gas dryer that tumbles without heat, or heats and quits, repaired at the igniter, the flame sensor or the valve coils.
A drum that will not turn, or turns with a squeal, thump or scrape, repaired at the belt, the idler pulley, the rollers and the glides.
A humming dryer that will not start, a rattle behind the drum, or weak airflow, traced to the drive motor or the blower wheel.
The safety parts that stop a dryer from overheating, replaced after the reason they tripped has been found.
A dryer that ignores the start button with its door shut, or a door that will not stay closed, fixed at the switch, catch or hinge.
A blank display, a panel that ignores buttons, codes, or cycles that end too soon or never end, traced to the board, timer or sensors.
The visit that prevents most dryer fires and many of the repairs above it: the duct, the hood and the lint inside the cabinet.
Heat-pump and condenser dryers that leak, stop with a full-tank warning or take hours, repaired at the exchanger, pump and filters.
Back to your everyday
Three short steps online, or one call. Tell us what you are seeing and pick a window that works.
