Error codes
A code narrows the search and is also the thing most often read wrong: the same characters mean different things on different brands, and a fair number of the codes people look up are not failures at all — they are modes the appliance was left in.
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Type the characters exactly as the display shows them, or pick the make. Each code has a page of its own: what it means on that brand, what to check, and what not to do.
This site lists only codes with a confirmed meaning. Book with the exact characters and the full model number — on a code, that is the whole starting point.
Book a visitA code is a lead, not a verdict. These decide whether the answer you find will be any use.
Every letter and digit, in sequence, and whether it flashes. Take a picture first — opening the door or pressing pause can erase some codes from the panel.
It sits on a label inside the door opening or on the back panel. One code can mean a vent problem on one make and a sensor problem on another.
That answer decides whether you cut the power, leave the house and call the gas utility now, or simply book the next open slot.
Codes fall into a handful of families. The family says more about the likely repair than the characters do — and one of them is not a repair at all.
How to read a codeA setting someone switched on, or a prompt the dryer shows by design — a child lock, a clean-the-lint-screen reminder, a demo setting. Nothing has failed and no part is needed.
The dryer expected heat and did not get it, or got it too slowly. On an electric model the element and its wiring; on a gas model the igniter, the flame sensor and the valve coils. A blocked vent is ruled out first.
A thermistor or the moisture sensor bars reading outside their range, or the wiring to them. The reading is checked with a meter before any part is ordered.
The control expected the drum to turn and it did not — a snapped belt, a seized idler pulley or a motor that hums without starting. The belt and pulley are checked before the motor.
Air is not leaving the dryer fast enough. Lint in the duct, a crushed hose behind the machine or a stuck flap on the outside hood is found long before any part fails.
The control cannot confirm that the door is shut, so it will not start. A worn strike or a bent latch is looked at before the door switch itself.
On a ventless dryer, the water it pulls from the load is not reaching the container or the drain — a full tank, a blocked condenser or a pump that is not running.
The main control board and the display board have stopped talking to each other. The harness and its connectors are checked before either board.
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